I spent Thanksgiving in Japan to rest my brain, catapulted into a completely different world where I’m no one’s boss and I don’t have to make any decisions. This year has been a tornado in the best and worst ways, trying to run the business and manage the team and fundraise with a small (but mighty) team. A city trip may seem surprising in this regard, but I didn’t want to sit on a beach with my feelings. Rather, I wanted to move my body, avoid screens, and see Mount Fuji (spoiler alert: I didn’t see Mount Fuji).
Last time I visited Tokyo was in 2019, just a few months before the world shut down. I was prompted to return this year because my friend Rocky (owner of the very cool, very delicious, very Christmas giftable Rocky’s Matcha - I love to plug the people I love) was going on a sourcing trip. I went back and forth about whether or not to head to the coast to surf, or join him in Fukuoka, but decided to stay in Tokyo and take my time here.
I always say “There’s no bad meals in Tokyo” so I felt comfortable going there with almost no dinner reservations. Still, the limitation of the trip quickly became “how many meals can I have in a day.” There’s such a wide variety of foods, and chefs dedicate themselves to the craft of one for decades or more.
Here are some highlights, in no particular order. I added them all, with pictures, to my Amigo profile (the app is free and you can use the invite code MELANIEGO). If you are planning a trip, I also recommend you follow Pia Rivelora and Simay Demirel who traveled to Tokyo recently and have great taste!
Taking a cooking class at Baba Ramen, which opened a few months ago, and learning to make Ramen + gyozas from scratch on Thanksgiving day.
Hunting for Tableware. I wanted to find as many unique pieces for my Paris apartment as possible. My favorite glassware to use for Ghia photoshoots are these hard to find opal glasses. I was on a hunt to find them, and lucked out when I found their factory store on the edge of the city - slightly imperfect (as defined by Japanese people, whose eye for perfection is extremely discerning) for a quarter of the price. I bought so many I had to go to Hands, Japan’s equivalent to Bed Bath and Beyond, and buy an extra bag to bring them back with me. While I was there I stocked up on face masks, lip masks, Japanese pens, and a ton of erasers shaped like sushi. Those felt necessary in the moment and I plan to stuff my family’s stockings with them. About 10 mins away is Kappabashi, a street that sells so much tableware - there’s a chopstick store, a bowl store, a pots and pans store, that my head almost exploded. There's even a store that sells all the fake food used for display to show what the menu looks like. I have never been so overstimulated in my life - most things are beautiful, well made, affordable. I found little rope trivets for $6 a piece that will be perfect for Paris. Special mention as well for Allegory Home Tools, a tiny shop in Daikanyama filled with amazing ceramics and gorgeous Donabes, all well priced as well. Exquisite curation and they ship worldwide. Mission accomplished!
TikTok and instagram influenced me to look for fluffy amazing pancakes. I tried both Flipper’s and Bills in Omotesando - both good but I liked Bills the best because it had a full menu, and the honeycomb butter the pancakes came with were exactly what I wanted. The toppings at Flipper’s were most interesting, especially if ice cream for breakfast sounds fun to you - it sounds like a stomach ache to me! I shall attempt to make them for my brother next time I’m in France.
I got a recommendation from a friend for a traditional acupuncture / shiatsu / everything experience. This felt very unique and disorientating, and I hope to never forget the details of this moment: fabric stalls filled with warmers that looked like very old toaster ovens. Very medical and not fancy in the best way. A Japanese master worked on my body and asked what I was in for. In sign language I tried to explain that I could use some help with a sore neck, stress and digestion, and that sometimes when I get stressed the factory that is my body goes on strike for extended periods of time sometimes. He put cups and needles all over me as he suggested I chew food 50 times per bite, something I’m not positive I will stick with. I left a new person, and when he asked when I would be back I confidently said “soon” because it’s the truth.
A few snaps from the Enoura foundation
Just an hour's train ride away from Tokyo is the Enoura Foundation, which was recommended by my friend Sofia (who just wrote the book Souvenirs of Japan.) Sitting atop hills covered in yuzu and citrus groves are a number of suspended buildings and observatories, all designed by Hiroshi Sugimoto - whose architectural work I was not familiar with. Enjoy dried citrus peel tea and cake while you wait for the shuttle back to the train station. Another example of Japan’s elegant simplicity
The main disappointment from my last trip was not seeing Mt Fuji, and sadly I didn’t get to see it this time again. On the train to Enoura I had high hopes, but the sky turned gray that afternoon. I’m staying positive and taking this as a sign I need to go back to Japan again. It was also not all for nothing, as halfway between Tokyo and Enoura, near the Kazamatsuri Station, is a restaurant that specializes in eel called Tomoei. We were the only tourists there and I can’t recommend it enough. You can call ahead to reserve your piece of eel, but you’ll still wait about an hour to be seated. Worth every minute.
I loved Yogoro, a small and local Japanese curry spot. I had to decipher the menu with google translate, but ended up going with my server’s recommendation. Spinach curry with perfectly grilled and tender chicken, herbed rice, and a soft boiled egg. So simple yet intentional (and I think I paid ~$15 if not a little less). 10/10 no notes.
I had been to Mori and Team Labs and the larger Tokyo museums on my last trip, so I prioritized the smaller ones this time around. The Yayoi Kusama museum showcases a lot of her early work that I had not seen before. It’s a fun, very manageable one hour museum. If you are a fan it’s worth the visit. The Japan Folks Craft Museum is also in a beautiful building and will delight design lovers.
There’s tons of vintage in Tokyo, usually in immaculate condition and widely available in small sizes, which is both magnificent and dangerous. The exchange rate is advantageous but it is by no means “cheap.” I spent a half day in Shimokitazawa - a slightly more bohemian district with a ton of vintage shops and record shops. They also have a brand new open air mall filled with concept stores and pop ups and it was nice to see what more modern Japanese shopping looks like. While I was there I had another Japanese curry, the kind that you order from a ticket / vending machine. It was mind-blowingly delicious, just the right amount of dense and salty to feel nourished but not too heavy that I couldn't get another 10,000 steps in afterwards. After a day of striking out on Americana thrift I walked into a store called Kindal (they have a few outposts) and found a Louis Vuitton leather trench that fit like a glove and was only 3-digits-expensive. It was from the 2014 runway show, I made sure to document the experience thoroughly on IG. I already wore it 8 times… so my girl math says it will have paid for itself next week.
Going back to Shima! The famous Japanese steakhouse in a basement in Ginza where you can get a steak sandwich to go. I had been on my last trip and was so excited to go back, with friends who had just gotten off a super long flight from New York. A perfect ‘Welcome To Japan’ meal.
The Steak Sandwich at Shima I’m getting many questions about hotels - mine were fine, not a highlight per se. I stayed at Sequence in Shibuya and was impressed by the design and location for the price (< $200 per night). I relocated to the Trunk Hotel half way through my stay, and I felt like the difference in price was not really worth it, though I hear the new one in Yoyogi Park is really great! Hotels are one of the few things that increased in price significantly in Japan after Covid. I had friends staying at The Andaz who were raving about it so I put it on my list for when I plan my visit with more notice (ie probably never). Also on my list are the luxurious Okura or the Imperial (which was designed by FLW and I had visited my first time in Japan. Then I stayed at the famous (read: Lost in Translation) Grand Hyatt and Hoshinoya which I loved the most. Side note, while I was there it occurred to me everyone in Japan has custom light switches, which as someone going through a renovation I know is no small feat.
Most Sushi experiences in Japan get booked months in advance, but the hotel recommended the omakase at Otani No Sushi. I did not organize this and I am always dubious of concierge recommendations, but as I said my priority was to not make too many decisions and leave room for the unexpected, so I obliged and joined my friends. I was so pleasantly surprised! It was the most beautiful omakase room I have ever seen, decorated in the most thoughtful way with ceramics that would have easily been thousands of dollars in the US. The fish was so fresh ~ as in, I watched the chef cut live shrimp in front of me. It’s been very hard having fish anywhere else since this. This was the most expensive meal of the trip, at ~ $300 pp, but I highly recommend it if you want one standout sushi experience and also didn’t call Sushi Sawada 35673 months in advance.
I went home feeling like I barely scratched the surface. Japan is a place I want to go to over and over again. I’ve visited Tokyo, Kyoto and the incredible James Turrell house in the mountains in Niigata. Next time I want to see Mount Fuji (ffs!!) and either surf (in Chiba? Kamakura looks beautiful but I was told the waves are hit or miss) or snowboard in Niseko. Naoshima and Teshima are on my list of trips I’m saving for when I have a lover (it’s getting pretty long, I hope he’s up for it!) so we can stay in the Benesse House overlooking the water.
That’s all from me! Again, linking here my Google Maps (perhaps most useful when walking around) and Amigo (free invite code = MELANIEGO). If you’re going there soon, have the best time!
Melanie
PS: Would love to know about your most memorable Tokyo experience below!
Loved reading this! I had the most special night at Ginza Music Bar. At the end of the night, my bartender and I realized we've actually met before... in Paris, when he was working at the bar of the Maison Souquet there 2 years prior. Felt very fitting to share here.
I share many travel recs on my Substack, including a Tokyo guide :) https://umachalik.substack.com/p/tokyo.
My favorite Tokyo memory is a bar called Little Soul Cafe. It is small, packed wall to wall with records, and a full cocktail menu. I ordered a grasshopper (!) and the bartender made it with a smile. It was cozy and smoky. I loved it.